Subaru
WRX
Mechanical
information specific to the WRX.
Clutch:
How
many miles can an average driver expect from
a WRX clutch? As with several of the all-wheel-drive,
turbo-charged rockets, this 4-wheel thrill
ride has enough power to slip the clutch even
when it is fully engaged. Full acceleration
above 3500 rpm hits the clutch with enough
torque to burn friction material right off
the disc!
Get
professional advise when choosing a clutch.
Your driving habits will dictate what works
best for you. Ask
a pro.
We
have seen WRXs in our shops for clutches at
10,000 miles. 25,000 seems closer to an average.
Even at these mileages, the WRX does better
than the Evo.
Unlike
the Evo, the WRX does not overheat its clutch
under normal driving. The WRX sports a larger
flywheel with more surface area. Because of
that, WRX clutches are not subjected to the
extreme temperatures that the Evo experiences.
Nevertheless, aluminum flywheels are an option.
They dissipate heat better (and rev faster!)
than OEM steel.
The
most persistent clutch symptom for the WRX
is chatter. Clutch engagement deteriorates
into a jumping, grabbing, vibrating mess.
Virtually every Subaru tends toward this problem.
The pancake engine design lacks vertical inertia
that would keep the engine from rocking/jumping
in rhythm with cylinder movement. This is
why Subarus require relatively soft engine
mounting. Engine movement during engagement
contributes to chatter. Also, any clutch will
start to chatter under repeated heavy engagement.
The WRX just begs to be driven hard. It is
no wonder that the clutch starts to vibrate
with time and wear. Keep in mind that almost
all performance upgrades (with the possible
exception of Kevlar discs) tend to exacerbate
this inherent problem.
Deciding
upon a performance clutch for your vehicle
is a big project. If your vehicle is nearly
stock and you drive very reasonably, you may
be better off with a stock clutch. If you
have added accessories that increase torque
output by more than 15%, or if you are prone
to extreme engagement (side-stepping the clutch
under acceleration) then you need to find
the appropriate 'super' clutch for your situation.
There
are dozens of brands. Each brand may offer
several types.
You
have to decide what material you want/need:
Organic, Cerametallic, Kevlar, or a Kevlar/Cerametallic
combination.
You
must pick a disc configuration: Full-face,
Vented, Paddle, or Multi-shoe.
Many
manufacturers will offer choices for clutch
cover specifications, heavier springs, lighter
materials, etc.
Then
choose a source:
One
reasonable choice is to purchase your performance
clutch from an installer. The advantage is
that you then have one party responsible for
both the parts and the labor. If you have
a warranty problem, the shop that installed
your clutch will be the ones who interface
with the manufacturer. You will deal face-to-face
with only one person, your local shop operator.
Local
retailers of performance parts and equipment
are a good possibility. Parts houses and speed
shops, are sources for performance clutches.
Such entities may be able to offer advice
and comparisons based upon their own experience.
Or,
you can buy online. The advantage is price.
You can shop and compare prices and buy from
the distributor who offers the
lowest total cost (don't forget to figure
handling and shipping charges into the total!).
Whatever
you choose, be aware that there are always
trade-offs to any custom installation. Pedal
feel may be harder. Engagement may be rough,
abrupt and noisy. Installation of a heavier
clutch may require additional modifications
(clutch hydraulics or cable/adjuster upgrades).
Enjoy
your WRX. It is a sweet ride with loads of
power.
Email
us for more WRX information 
Questions? |
