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We offer free online
mechanical information
specific to individual vehicle models. 
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Ford Truck - F150, F250, F350, Ranger

Mechanical information specific to Ford Trucks.

 

Clutch:

Ford scales their clutch capacity, in a remarkably reasonable progression, in accord with the size, weight, and torque capacity of their truck models. A four-cylinder Ranger has a clutch that is relatively light weight, similar to many passenger cars. An F350 Super Duty Turbo Diesel comes with a huge, heavy-duty clutch that weighs more than 45 pounds. Average usage seems to scale accordingly. The bigger the truck, the longer service you might expect from the clutch. Rangers average approximately 70,000 miles. F350 Diesels average more than 120,000 miles.

When replacing a clutch, be wary of non-stock parts. Even purported performance upgrades should be investigated for quality and appropriateness for your particular application.

Stock truck clutches are manufactured with a relatively soft friction material that is coupled with a strongly sprung pressure plate. The pairing assures smooth, controllable, quiet engagement with heavy load/torque capacity and a reasonable life expectancy. Deviating from stock configuration tends to introduce undesirable operation features. A clutch that engages harshly and abruptly, or that chatters and engages unpredictably, can be frustrating and dangerous when backing a load up a steep drive or pulling a boat up a wet ramp.

When replacing a clutch, replace the entire clutch kit (plate, disc, release bearing, and pilot bearing), carefully inspect the flywheel and replace if hotspots are present (if reusing the flywheel, always resurface with a diamond-wheel flywheel grinder). Check the clutch master and slave cylinders, and the tube that connects the two cylinders, for leaks. Inspect motor mounts and transmission mount for breakage and/or sagging. Inspect universal joints.

 

Hydraulics:

Ford Truck Clutches are hydraulically operated. The system consists of a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and a hose or tube that connects the two. Even the smallest of leaks in this system will cause problems shifting. Location of the slave cylinder varies (depending upon year/model) between external, mounted to the side of the transmission bellhousing, and internal, inside the bellhousing mounted on the transmission input shaft. either clutch cylinder

A leak in either clutch cylinder is reason to consider replacing both. This system in Ford trucks has proven to be fragile and prone to problems. Whatever caused one cylinder to fail, the other has been subjected to the same influences. No one wants to make two trips, in quick succession, to the repair shop.

Replacing these cylinders is a job for a professional. While the actual unbolting and reattaching of the parts is reasonably straight-forward, bleeding the system properly is tedious and unreasonably complicated. Even in a clutch shop, the process of bleeding the hydraulic system will often require more time than the actual exchange of parts.

 

How to bleed Ford Truck internal slave clutch hydraulic systems:

Remove the clutch master cylinder from the firewall and clutch pedal (that's right, remove it!). Leave the hydraulic line connected.

Angle the master cylinder so that the line is above any other part of the cylinder (basically upside down) This allows all the air in the cylinder to rise to the top and accumulate immediately adjacent to the line.

Have a helper under the vehicle crack the slave cylinder bleeder valve open. On models where it is possible to reach, have the helper hold a rubber-gloved finger over the open valve orifice so that it acts as a one-way valve and allows no air to enter the slave cylinder on the return stroke.

Holding the master cylinder in this position, use your other hand to smoothly pump the cylinder rod and piston several times. Make sure you depress the piston completely each time. Do this slowly and smoothly. You have to push the air bubble all the way down and through the slave cylinder. Rest after three or four strokes. Any rapid movement will disperse the air throughout the cylinder, the fluid will aerate (lots of little bubbles) and the process will be unsuccessful. Be sure that the master cylinder reservoir never goes dry.

When you decide you have done enough (?), direct your helper to close the valve during the final depression stroke. Ideally, the valve would be completely closed while the piston is being depressed, not after it hits bottom.

Reinstall the master cylinder. Hope for the best.

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You should try to have three people to do this job. One to work the cylinder, one to work the bleeder valve, and one to keep the master cylinder from running dry.

When we do this job in our shops we always try to keep the vehicle overnight so that any air that was aerated into the fluid will condense and we will find the problem the next morning rather than having the customer stuck with shifting problems.

We strongly recommend that this be done in a shop that specializes in clutches. The chances of a relatively inexperienced DIYer or even an average general mechanic getting it right the first time are slim.

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